Amanda Palmer and the 48 crew land in one of the most controversial capitals in the Middle East, Damascus. A mixture of tradition and modernity - roads have always led to Damascus.
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Damascus in 48 hours. Video hosted on Youtube. Legend has it that on a journey from Mecca, the Prophet Mohammed cast his gaze from the mountainside onto Damascus but refused to enter the city because he wanted to enter paradise only once - when he died. In a place that vies for the title of the world's oldest continually inhabited city, it is but one of thousands of stories. With its position as the first stop for travellers from the east, and with the Barada River flowing down freely from the mountains where the Prophet stood, Damascus has always been a coveted capital. The machinations of those wishing to claim the city as their own is as fascinating as the wealth of architecture and culture they left behind, with Damascus collecting the calling cards of myriad civilisations. Spring is the best time to visit as temperatures are mild and the winter rains have cleared the haze that obscures views for much of the year. Autumn is the next best choice. The busiest tourist periods are Easter, July, August, October and Islamic religious holidays. During these times it is essential to book accommodation in advance. The Muslim fasting month of Ramadan may require a bit more planning: make sure you eat breakfast at your hotel, as some cafes and restaurants close during the day, and some offices operate reduced and erratic hours. Ramadan nights, particularly during the final three days of Eid al-Fitr can be particularly lively. You may wish to schedule your trip around annual festivals.
The best time of year to visit is spring (March to May) when the weather is mild and wildflowers are in bloom. During May, the winter rains would have cleared the haze that obscures the cities for some of the year. If you can't make the spring, aim for autumn (September to November), between the intense heat of summer and the cloud of winter. For sunworshippers, temperatures soar from June to the middle of September, although summers can be uncomfortably hot. The winter rains can make sightseeing difficult but, if you're lucky enough, a blanket of snow may cover Damascus.
Syria's historic sites rival those of its Middle Eastern neighbours; it also lays claim to the oldest continuously occupied city (Damascus vies for the title with Aleppo), the spunkiest Crusader castle (Crac des Chevaliers) and the best preserved Roman theatre (in Bosra). Historically, Syria included Jordan, Israel and Lebanon, as well as the area now known as Syria. Although the modern state of Syria is a 20th-century creation, the region can lay claim to having one of the oldest civilisations in the world. The Mesopotamian Akkadians were the first to covet the area, followed by the Egyptians; then the Hittites came to town. Evidence of the first alphabets have been found at the ancient site of Ugarit. The country was in a top strategic spot, and its coastal towns became important Phoenician trading posts - consequently, it became a prize for every neighbouring warmonger for over 400 years. Later, Syria was a pivotal part of the Persian, Greek, then Roman empires. After Byzantium went pear-shaped, the Islamic Umayyads (who for a time made Damascus the capital of the Muslim world) were followed in 750 by the Abbasids, who moved to Baghdad, starting a period of decline. The Crusaders arrived and spread their patented brand of mayhem until their defeat at the hands of Nureddin (Nur ad-Din), whose son, Saladin (Salah ad-Din), brought prosperity back to the region. They were followed by the Mamluks and Mongols until finally, in 1516, the Ottomans took over. Syria prospered under Ottoman rule except for a brief period in the 19th century when the Egyptians fronted up. They were soon sent packing and the Ottoman Turks, along with Lebanon, dished it out to France when the Turkish Empire broke up after WWI.
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